How to: Front sway bar bushing install

Discussion in 'DIY' started by lancer2quick, Apr 28, 2010.

  1. lancer2quick

    lancer2quick Well-Known Member

    OK. I decided to replace my stock rubber sway bar bushings with Energy Suspension poly bushings. Autozone, Advance, and Oreiley's have 2 kits to choose with just bushings and washers (10 bucks) and one with bushings, washers, bolts, nuts, and sleeves (18 bucks...and you can't use the sleeve b/c its too long)

    Here's the how to...

    What you need: 14mm closed end wrench, 14mm socket and ratchet, and the new bushings...

    First CAN do this with the car on the ground...but it is a little difficult reaching around the wheels. If you do jack the car up and remove the wheels, its easier to get to...but you will have to fight with the sway bar back down into position.

    Locate the end link, and undo the bolt that runs through the lower control arm to the top of the sway bar...

    You'll have to use the 14mm wrench for the nut up wants to spin with the bolt. After you get the nut off, you can pull the bolt out the bottom of the lower control arm...taking off the stock bushings and sleeve in the process.

    This is what you'll have after you take out the bolt/bushings. I re-assembled it for reference purposes...

    Then, you install the new bushings AND washers that come with the kit. The stock bushings have metal washers built in, so you will need to use the new washers.

    Put the first washer on the bolt along with the first bushing. Slide the bolt/bushing combo up through the lower control arm enough to put on another bushing and then a washer. On top of the washer, put the stock sleeve onto the bolt...followed by a washer then another bushing. Push the bolt the rest of the way through the sway bar, and put on the last bushing and washer. this is where it gets a little difficult....The stock bolt is long enough for the new setup, but you have to pull the sway bar DOWN to be able to thread the nut. It takes a little force...and a little grunting

    After all the swearing, and frustration, this is what you will end up with...

    You should tighten the nut/bolt enough to make the new bushings "squish" just a little. After that....go do the other side...don't half-ass it.

    After everything is installed, go for a drive. You should feel a fairly significant difference in cornering from the get-go. If it feels like you have MORE body roll than before, you may not have tightened the bolts quite enough. Just go by what you feel based on your previous experience, and you will get it right.
  2. Jogenmaru

    Jogenmaru Well-Known Member

    Nice right up. :D
  3. toner1125

    toner1125 Active Member

    +1. You metioned if it feels like it rolls that it might not be tight enough, leads me to wonder if there is a torque spec that matters. Imma look into it if I ever get my service manual in the mail lol.
  4. lancer2quick

    lancer2quick Well-Known Member

    I don't think its a torque spec thing...I think is how the bushings seat. When I initially tightened the bolts, only the very top and bottom bushings compressed. I drove it around the block to settle all the suspension parts, and when I checked them out they weren't as compressed. The other two bushings finally took some of the load, and I tightened a bit more from there.
  5. toner1125

    toner1125 Active Member

    Oh ya that makes sense some things are like that. Need to be broken in a bit then tightened to the final position. I know for some head gaskets you gotta torque em down, do 90 degree with the wrench, Crack em adn then repeat process. Only reason is to squish the gasket into place so when you do the final torque itll be at the right place and not loosen up. Nice write up man. :D
  6. firetruck

    firetruck Member

    nice write up for sure. was there an energy suspension part number on the package?