Couldn't post a new topic in the knowledge base. so i figured i'd post here and it would get moved if necessary. Or i can repost it in a different forum later, whichever. First, some semi-legal mumbo-jumbo: **Disclaimer** Neither I nor LT should be held responsible for any adverse effects this may have on your car. This is simply a suggestion , and you assume all risk of performing this modification. That being said, this is probably one of the easiest and cheapest Ã¢â‚¬Å“performanceÃ¢â‚¬Â mods you can do for your car. I recommend this for people living in warmer climates however, if you feel comfortable doing this in a cooler climate, I donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t see how this would hurt. I live in Houston, TX where weÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re Ã¢â‚¬ËœluckyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ if we get temperatures below freezing over the course of the year. However, when it gets hotÃ¢â‚¬Â¦ IT GETS HOT. Mitsubishi and many other manufacturers, in their infinite wisdom, decided that to help our engines warm up from a cold start, they would run hot coolant through our throttle bodies to warm up the incoming air. ThatÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s fine for the first couple of minutes your car is running but, this is a continuous system. Even after your car is at operating temp (probably between 180-220 degrees) and the temp outside is 101 in the shade. That hot coolant is still flowing thru your throttle body. Most people know that as the temperature of the air is increased, it becomes less dense. This reduces power and efficiency. This is the reason we have CAIÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s, intercoolers with turboÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s, vented hoods, etc. ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s all about reducing the air temp. I have done this mod on my lancer and the 2 vehicles I owned previously with no problems. But honestly this isnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t going to be something your probably gonna feel on your Ã¢â‚¬Å“Butt-Dyno.Ã¢â‚¬Â Heck, you may only even gain a half HP. IDK. IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ve never seen a Dyno sheet posted of before/after this mod. But for under $10 and maybe a couple of beers, itÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s kinda just something to do on your car. I also recommend having a buddy help you, as having an extra pair of hands is always nice (and less coolant lost), and sharing that beer is good too. Tools: Drip Pan, unless you donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t care if you drip fluids on your grass/driveway. You will lose some fluid! Screw driver Pliers If you have some laying around some 3/8Ã¢â‚¬Â bolts if notÃ¢â‚¬Â¦ work fast Small Tie Wrap (Zip-Tie) Materials: Hose Clamps (really shouldnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t need them but, just in case) 3/8Ã¢â‚¬Â Barb Splice Coupling (From Lowes or Home Depot) Vacuum Hose Caps (From Auto Parts Store, Got mine @ Auto Zone, each pack has 1 of each size so get 2 packs) Anti-Freeze (I donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t care if the bottle says safe for all vehicles. The ownerÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s manual says ethylene glycol, so use ethylene glycol. I also recommend getting the pre-mixed. ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s just easier.) Steps: 1. Remove Intake Hose between TB and Air Box. 2. Lol, we didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t get to this till later, but you should cover the throttle with something. We used a shop rag. DonÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t want coolant getting in there. 3. Use your pliers to loosen the OEM hose clamp and gently remove the hose from the nipple. Put a 3/8Ã¢â‚¬Â bolt in the end of the hose temporarily to keep from leaking fluid all over the place. If you damage the OEM clamp, this is what the extras are for. 4. Put one of the 3/8Ã¢â‚¬Â caps on the end of your barb splice. Then repeat step 3 for the second hose. This time inserting the capped splice instead of the bolt. 5. Put Caps on the nipples on the throttle body. This is to keep dirt and such from getting in there so if for some reason you need to put things back to original. 6. Remove the cap from the splice and put your finger over the end. Also, remove the bolt from the first hose and also put a finger over the end. This is just to minimize the amount of coolant lost and to keep from making a big mess. 7. Put the open end of the splice into the first hose. 8. Use your pliers again the gently move the hose clamps back into position at the ends of the hoses over the splice. Wipe everything down and check for leakage. 9. Tie wrap the first hose to a solid point. To keep it from flopping around too much. 10. Re-install the intake hose (take whatever you used to cover the throttle out, lol) 11. Add Coolant if necessary. The marks on the reservoir are for when the car is cool. When the car is hot/running there will be less coolant in the reservoir. 12. Clear under the hood of all tools/materials and start the car. Keep an eye on your splice and watch for leaks. If the car comes up to temp with no leaks, take it for a short spin. Keep checking the splice. 13. After the car has run for a while with no problems shut it down and let it cool. Check your coolant level again. Add if necessary. **Note: You WILL spill some coolant. So for at least a few days after you do this, you will smell it when your driving. DonÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t be alarmed. Just keep an eye on your splice and coolant level. If you keep needing to add coolant, something is wrong. Figure it out and fix it, or put things back the way you found them.