04-06 Ralliart AMS trans side mount

Discussion in 'DIY' started by lancer2quick, Apr 20, 2012.

  1. lancer2quick

    lancer2quick Well-Known Member

    Ok guys, I know its been a bit since I did this, but I'm just now getting to the write up. As most of you know I've had some issues in the past few weeks with the car...and this was a needed upgrade. I haven't seen anyone put one of these in the Ralliart before and wasn't sure if it would fit right....but I took the gamble and ordered it. I don't know if this will work for you 2.0L guys, but I think its the same. Anyways...on with the show....


    First, remove the battery, tray, and intake from the car. You have to do this in order to have enough room to work. After that is said and done, throw the car on stands and your jack under the trans case.

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    From here, you should have a clear working area to remove the mount...and it looks a little something like this...

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    Now, you have to take off the four nuts holding the mount to the trans.
    All four need a 17mm deepwell socket to remove
    Front:

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    Rear bolts are just to the right and sit just below the shift cables and linkage:

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    After the four nuts are removed, you need to remove the single bolt securing the mount to the frame. A 17mm socket and 19mm wrench is what it takes for this one. Also, the center member needs to be removed from underneath. There are two bolts in front and one in the rear (if I remember correctly) and are also 17mm. The bolt that goes through the mount also needs to be removed to free the center member from the engine...14mm I think. BTW, this is where the front roll stop mount is located if you ever need to change it.

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    Now, you can SLOWLY lower the engine/trans with the floor jack. The engine/trans needs to be lowered enough so the mount will clear the shift linkage and upper mounting bracket...about 6-9 inches. It may take a little wiggling and positioning, but the mount will eventually come out when you get it situated right. Then you have this empty little spot...

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    Here is the mount out of the car. Mine didn't look terrible, but these are oil-filled....and mine had popped and all the fluid was gone.

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    Now, you need to have the old rubber or "bushing" as I call it pressed out at a machine shop or similar place. Since no one near me was open on Saturday, I had to wait until Monday to get it done...takes all of about 10 minutes.

    Once the old bushing is out, the new one can go in. Since the poly bushing is a two-piece...there was no need to have it pressed back into the mount. I just put a little copper grease inside the mount and pushed the pieces in...followed by the steel inner sleeve. Looks a bit like this...

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    And from this point...its pure reversal of the tear down. It may take a little adjusting the trans to get the single bolt to line up correctly, but just be patient. Afterwards, this is what you get...

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    Same mount...new guts, if you will.

    Once the mount is re-installed, go ahead and double check your nuts, bolts, etc. The last thing you need is the trans dropping while driving. Once everything has been OK'd, time to put the intake and battery back in place.

    IMPORTANT:: Be sure to re-connect your MAF connector to the MAF. I was a moron and forgot to do it. Soon as I cranked the car, I remembered...but I had to deal with the CEL for half a day.


    So there you go....the mount fits....and its cheaper than the OEM mount. Now, go get busy....
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2012
  2. roblaza

    roblaza Well-Known Member

    How's she feel?? Performance review??
     
  3. SoulEater13

    SoulEater13 Well-Known Member

    would those fit on the 2.4L on the 2012 GT???? i been trying to look for some.
     
  4. lancer2quick

    lancer2quick Well-Known Member

    For me...it seemed to give more feedback from the engagement/disengagement of the clutch through the steering wheel and floor. Not sure if that makes any sense, but thats about the only way to explain it.
     
  5. Jogenmaru

    Jogenmaru Well-Known Member

    So in other words it was stiff as hell. Causing no engine hop. Which in turn sent the actual vibration through the chassis instead of being absorb.